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48 pages 1 hour read

Alka Joshi

The Perfumist of Paris

Fiction | Novel | Adult | Published in 2023

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Themes

Scent as a Catalyst for Memory and Identity

Joshi uses the art form of perfume blending to explore the vital connection between scent, memory, and identity. The novel's prologue opens with a conversation between Radha and her mentor Antoine—they discuss their childhood, and their memories are layered with olfactory imagery. This conversation highlights the vital role that scent plays in encoding individuals’ foundational and transformative experiences. Often, Radha’s flashbacks in the novel are preceded by lush olfactory imagery, mimicking the ways that smells trigger memories.

The pleasure Radha takes in her work as a perfumer is a result of this connection between scent and her memories and identity. When she is working in Paris and disconnected from her extended family and her cultural identity, perfuming not only allows Radha professional fulfillment and prestige but also connects to her deepest self, which Pierre does not understand. In Agra, Radha’s memories flash rapidly as she takes in the smells she grew up with—Lakshmi’s herb and chrysanthemum scent comforts her even as the overwhelming scent of sandalwood at the courtesans’ haveli reminds her of the loss of Niki. The vial of scent she carries to calm herself is Niki’s baby smell, but just as she locks away those memories, she keeps the scent bottled and sealed, taking it out only when she is alone, vulnerable, and in need of comfort. Radha’s work as a perfumer is not simply “playing with fragrances” as Pierre suggests (33), but a vital connection to who she is.

Radha discovers that just as perfumes are made of unique blends of scents, her own identity is multifarious, complex, and individual. At the haveli, Radha learns that the foundational scents of Western perfumery derive from her own cultural identity. Havi, Nasreen, and the perfume merchant, Mr. Mehta, explain that perfuming practices have existed for thousands of years in India, long before Western perfumers like the House of Yves made the practice a symbol of wealth and luxury. In India, Radha grew up with foundational fragrances like sandalwood, jasmine, neroli, and patchouli growing wild on roadsides and in gardens; these scents are a part of her own cultural capital, which gives her an edge over her colleagues Michel and Ferdinand. Delphine recognizes this and tells Radha: “You were born of fragrance. It’s in your blood, bones, hair, breath. You eat it in your food. You wear it from the inside out” (88). Delphine acknowledges the connection between Radha’s cultural identity and her talent for blending scents. In her quest to develop a scent to capture Manet’s Olympia, Radha delves into the life of the woman who modeled for the painting: Victorine Meurent. Radha discovers Victorine’s aspirations and the risks she took for her art, as well as her betrayal by the artists who used her forms in their works. Piecing together the layers of Victorine’s various identities allows Radha to identify the discrete scents needed to capture her whole person. Radha’s quest to find the moist, humid base scent she associates with Victorine becomes a catalyst for unifying her own disparate identities and accepting that, like a perfume made of a blend of scents, she is a person made of a blend of identities and experiences, each vital to the whole.

The Double Bind of Feminine Gender Identities

Radha’s story explores how women become trapped by the limited identities offered them in patriarchal societies. It also portrays their struggles to form cohesive identities within the proffered roles. Radha’s situation challenges the idea that woman can “have it all” by illuminating the double binds that set women up to fail when they try to balance a home life with a career.

Unlike the men in the novel, whose overarching male identities allow them to enjoy unity between their various identities, Radha is forced to compartmentalize her personal, domestic, and professional identities. The roles that each of these identities demands of her—due to her gender—require complete and total commitment. For instance, Pierre tells her: “I want a full-time mother for [the children], a normal life.” This expectation demands that Radha choose between aspects of her identity—professional and domestic—that are of equal importance to her. Pierre’s words also reject her personal and professional identities as though they are not also who she is. Any progress Radha makes at work becomes a loss at home, with her promotions leading to censure and accusations of negligence from Pierre. Similarly, at work, she stays longer, works harder, and faces criticism for being unfocused if she must leave early to attend to her children. As a wife and mother, her identity is subordinated by Pierre; and at work, Radha feels subordinate to her male counterparts and her boss, Delphine.

Radha’s divided loyalties between her various identities lead her to double binds in which she loses no matter what choice she makes. Between two impossible and conflicting demands, Radha has little time or space left for her best friend, Mathilde, or herself. Her mother-in-law Florence examines her own struggles as a woman when she says, “[I]n the end, we’re left with…pieces of a whole. Shards. Splinters. Chips. Pick them up, they cut our hands. Leave them on the ground, they cut our feet” (226). Florence’s words echo Radha’s situation, revealing that women are expected to live their lives in painful ways that force them to deny parts of their identities and fracture themselves. Since Florence, Radha, and even Victorine have all experienced this, the novel shows that this is a problem that women have faced for generations.

The double binds in Radha’s life lead her to become her own oppressor. Buying into the notion that having it all means doing it all, she sets unrealistic expectations for herself as a worker and mother. She also keeps painful secrets about her past trauma out of fear of failure in her various roles. Even when Pierre is not present, her self-talk mimics his, like when she leaps to the conclusion that Shanti is fighting at school and lashing out at nannies because Radha works too much. Later, Radha’s ensuing guilt of arriving home late to dinner ruins the supportive and congratulatory feedback Delphine offers at work. Driving her insecurities is the patriarchal notion that she must be content with just motherhood; so, Radha views her own perceived failure to keep and mother Niki when she was 13 and her desire to succeed professionally as proof she is flawed. As a result, she cuts herself off from memories of Niki even as her body remembers him and will not let her forget. It is not until she visits the courtesans in Agra while working on a perfume that captures the essence of Olympia that Radha sees that no one identity, aspect, or role is representative of her whole self. Just as Havi refuses to have herself and her girls reduced to only sex workers and Victorine refused to be defined by male slanderers, Radha realizes she can find herself within her various identities. She discovers that by unifying them, she can nullify the double binds her identities create when treated as individual wholes.

Women’s Solidarity as a Means of Empowerment

Joshi rewrites literary history and tradition in her depiction of the network of women who support one another throughout the novel. Dispensing with patriarchal story tropes that have socialized women to view other women as competition—such as the overbearing mother-in-law, the femme fatale, and the romantic rival—Joshi instead creates a story that illustrates positive outcomes for women who reject rivalry as the only mode of interaction.

Radha’s character journey is one of unlearning these patriarchal tropes. Initially, Radha buys into the harmful belief that the women around her are her competitors. She recounts how she vied with Kanta for Niki’s affections and resented Sheela not just for the bullying and torment, but because in the end, Sheela won Ravi’s hand in marriage. Unable to monopolize either man’s affections, she believed the remedy was to remove herself completely, which not only leaves her to carry her burdens alone but damages her core self and sense of confidence as a mother. In Paris, the novel initially raises the specter of the overbearing mother-in-law through Radha’s assumption that Florence’s offers of help are an attempt to turn her girls away from her and their cultural roots. She even suspects Delphine of being her rival at work who might be sabotaging Radha’s perfumes following her successful reformulation of Delphine’s fragrance. However, the novel later subverts all these tropes when it reveals that Radha’s own socialization and experiences have led her to misinterpret both women’s intentions.

Radha’s realizations come after her soul-searching journey to Agra. There, her judgments threaten her relationships with the courtesans, Havi and Nasreen, and jeopardize her mission to find the missing fragrance. By implying that the women of the kotha are exploited sex workers to be pitied, Radha insults Havi and Nasreen, whose classical training, safe shelter, food, and regular hours uplift women who have few options elsewhere. Havi’s rebuke, and later, her recharacterization of Mumtaj Mahal’s life as a tomb rather than the Taj Mahal as her tomb forces Radha to reexamine her own assumptions and apply them to her life.

Rather than casting the women in Radha’s life as adversaries, the novel shows that they support each other, particularly following Radha’s divorce. Delphine provides housing and Florence magnanimously offers her apartment as the permanent residence for Radha’s daughters so that their lives are less disrupted. Rather than being a burden or source of conflict, these gestures benefit all involved: Housing allows Radha to focus on her work, which supports Delphine’s reputation, and Florence finds a way to feel relevant in her grandchildren’s lives and assuage her loneliness. Even Radha’s romantic rivals Sheela and Mathilde experience redemption, as Radha does not allow Pierre to blame Mathilde for the tryst, and Radha and Sheela’s combined talents and influence result in a mutually supportive business arrangement.

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